You will be met at the International
Airport and accompanied to one of the 3 star hotels we use in LIMA.
There you'll get to know other tour participants and one or two of our
staff. You'll be staying in Miraflores, a district of Lima which has
plenty of activity and night-life.
Monday we shall take the hour and a half
flight to CAJAMARCA early. You may need to take it easy for the rest of
the day whilst your body adjusts to the 9,500 ft elevation of the town.
A lot of people hardly notice the difference in air density however, and
that being so it'd be a good idea to accompany us up the steep steps
behind the central plaza to the shrine and big cross which overlook all
of the town. From there several places of interest
which we will be riding or walking out to can be seen. `El Zarco´ is a
good place to get some lunch. Try the`cebiche´ - a dish of uncooked
fish marinated in lime juice , or a roasted guinea pig maybe.
Still feeling fit ? ......then take
over your waiting bike and do an afternoon circuit with us via the hot
thermal springs at Los Banos Del Inca, the picturesque local Indian
village of Llacanora and back through the eucalyptus lined sandy roads
of the Cajamarca valley.
The first full day's ride to the Andean town of CAJABAMBA is only 75
miles or so and is a good introduction to the variety of roads that we
shall be riding on during the tour. After a stop at the small market
town of San Marcos the asphalt runs out and you will be introduced to -
or re-introduced to - the fine flavour of Andean dust. However before
riding along the warm ,lush Condebamba valley floor, an hour before our
destination , you'll get the opportunity to wash it off at the natural
hot springs of Aguas Calientes (pointless - but fun - because you are
going to get dusty again before pulling into Cajabamba !) CAJABAMBA
itself is a busy agricultural town with some good friendly places to
eat. Los Cristales, for example, where you can get fresh trout and a
cold beer. Your hotel (Hotel Jhoel) has the traditional courtyard where
we can park up the bikes prior to going round the town checking out
anything that you may find of interest. Apart from evidence of a large
native campesino presence there are modern places that cheaply hire
Internet services. Visit the church on the central plaza too.
Next day we shall get a good breakfast early and head out towards
HUAMACHUCO passing many scenic views and picturesque mountain villages.
When you first see a lake of the colour deep metallic blue slow up and
be aware that you will run up to some dry sandy parts which could make
your bike's steering `uncooperative´! Just a little further on is a good
place to stop and get an open air meal with fish from the lake.
HUAMACHUCO is bigger than Cajabamba and
it claims to have the largest Plaza De Armas (central Plaza) in all of
Peru. Arriving here in the early afternoon gives us time to ride the
extra 6 kilometres up to `Marca Huamachuco´- a pre Inca fort. On top of
a local peak and protected by 25 ft walls this fort was in an excellent
position against all enemies and was probably used continually from 300
A.D. up until Inca times 1,700 years later.
Our Hotel `Hostal Huamachuco´ overlooks
the main plaza. The best restaurants and music penas are either on or near to the plaza also. It can get a bit chilly
at night because the altitude here is over 3,000 mts.
Leaving Huamachuco the route we take
soon climbs to altitudes over 4,000 metres. Passing herds of alpacas and
llamas, with luck one could even spot a Viscacha - an animal that
looks like a cross between a squirrel and a rabbit. They live amongst
the rocks at high altitude and eat - well, maybe pieces of rock -
there's not much else up here. From the road descending into Quiruvilca
you can witness the activity of a mining settlement going on almost
directly below. The rows of miner's terraced housing, scarred earth and
waste spills make for a colourful and interesting picture. Still it IS a
grim scene and it is most unlikely you will want to hang around long if
the sun goes in or down prematurely. Continuing on after Shorey, another
mining town, we lose altitude and come into areas of eucalyptus forest
and of cultivated mountainsides. The route continues to descend and just
when you may be beginning to wonder if you are in fact below sea level
(inland of course) we will suddenly find ourselves at the junction of a
smooth tarmaced road indicating 4km to Otuzco right or Trujillo (coast)
27 km to the left. We'll take the Trujillo road and follow the course of
the river Moche all the way to Trujillo. Rather than stay in Trujillo
city we shall actually by-pass it and check into the Hostal Bracamonte
at HUANCHACO. Huanchaco is Trujillo´s nearest and most popular beach
community. We are going to rest up here for a full day (2 nights).
The Bracamonte has excellent facilities (swimming pool, laundry service,
restaurant, games room etc) and is one minute from the beach (running)
down the drive and across the beach-side promenade.
There is some nightlife in Huanchaco
but an alternative is to go into Trujillo only 7 miles away. Trujillo is
the third largest city in Peru and has a population of 800,000, so
there's plenty of choice for restaurants, discos etc. If you are culture
hungry next day we can visit Chan Chan a town constructed by the Chimu
civilization (1100 AD - 1470 AD). It is the largest historical adobe
constructed town in the World. Visits such as this are better using one
of the very frequent local buses, a taxi, or perhaps our back up vehicle
(if everyone agrees on a visit) rather than leaving a motorcycle around
the city or near it.
The next part of your trip will take us
down the `Panamericana´ highway - the highway that starts in Alaska and
ends in Chile (or vice versa) - turning off inland towards the
Cordillera Blanca a few kilometres before Chimbote. This route leading
up to the Cordillera Blanca (the highest mountain range in Peru) mainly
uses the foundation of a disused railway track leading to CARAZ.
Consequently the climb is gradual and long. After a few hours of riding
through rocky gorges and crossing and recrossing the river that the
route follows one enters the part known as the Canon del Pato. A few
feet over to your left side and down at the bottom of this spectacular
canyon flows the Santa river. One can park up safely at several places
and cross the canyon by hanging cable bridge. The rough road passes
through 40 or so tunnels , both long and very short, before changing to
a new and smooth surface some kilometres before the night's destination
of CARAZ.
CARAZ is a pretty little colonial style town backed by snow covered
mountains. Peaks are visible from the beautiful Central Plaza.
After a night's rest we'd recommend
riding up to a local glacial lake `Llanganuco´, leaving plenty of time
to stop at Yungay at the foot of Huascaran , 22,000 ft high and of
course covered in snow. It was here in 1970 that an earthquake shook off
tons of snow pushing out the water of a high altitude lake. This in turn
descended the mountainside gathering rocks and earth. The result was a
200 mph landslide covering the old town of Yungay four minutes after the
earthquake had ended. 20,000 people died. Only 92 survived , most of
them children on a mount near the cemetery.
HUARAZ our night's stop is a fair size town, very attractive because of
its location backed by snow covered mountains. Here warrants a stop for
several days.
We make several excursions from HUARAZ
to places of local interest including to the snowline at Pastorouri.
Huaraz nightlife is lively. A great place for holidaying with all the
facilities that you are likely to want. White-water rafting can be
arranged through a local agency but there's plenty to do and see in any
case.
When the time comes to leave Huaraz we
take the way down to the coast that appears most direct on the map. It
is a spectacular trip and chosen as such rather than for a directional
efficiency motive. You will be enlightened further on this particular
part of our All terrain Tour prior to riding it. Whereas you experienced
off roaders will likely find this road a delight it is not everyone's
idea of fun. The road is narrow , the surface rough or sandy and includes a short section that will have
no structure or raised mound between you and hundreds of feet of sheer
drop. (see route alternatives in another section of our web-site)
An hour on and the vegetation has
started to look more tropical and there are plenty of little villages to
sell you a Coke or an Inca Cola etc. The last bit of this route is
actually arid and paved and is one of the most pleasant places to ride
through the desert (little traffic). The archaeological site of Sechin ,
just a kilometer before Casma is worth stopping off at during the late
afternoon. The last few kilometres of this day's ride will take us North
to La Bahia de Las Tortugas (The Bay of Turtles) tucked away a mile off
from the main coastal highway. It's a peaceful bayside community with
adequate facilities for the tourist albeit probably quieter than the
locals would like it. Relax here - sit out on the hotel veranda and
watch the pelicans diving for fish amongst the fishing boats bobbing
about all over the bay. Swat a bat after nightfall (no chance) or dine
out at one of the beachside restaurants. No nightlife here just enjoy
the peace.
Riding up through the coastal desert in
a north-westerly direction the following day, we will have to deal soon
with the traffic in Chimbote - a small city known for its steel works
and fish meal processing plant. Ride defensively and don't trust other
drivers´ signals (or their lack of them). Later arriving at Trujillo
again, take the convenient Via de Evitiamiento (by-pass) enabling us to
continue unhindered out into the desert again . You either like the
desert or you don't but either way within a couple of hours you will be
approaching PACASMAYO. This little town doesn't look
particularly attractive at first but ride through one of the narrow
streets out in the direction of the sea and the atmosphere changes
amongst the old wooden buildings to one of quaint charm. You'll find our
hotel (Pakatnamu) right on the seafront overlooking the Pacific Ocean
and if you are there before the rest ask to park up your bike in the
hotel `cochera´ and from there unload your gear. See you for a drink on
the balcony overlooking the beach.
Next day the ride will be shorter and
we'll visit Sipan archaeological site, the Bruning Museum , places of
artesanal interest (authentic souvenirs) and Zana town that was
partially destroyed by floods back in 1720. We stay at the same hotel
back at PACASMAYO this night.
The final full day's ride will take us up into the mountains to
CAJAMARCA , where we started our tour. This time the road up is nicely
surfaced. There's plenty of time to stop at the Gallito Ciego dam and
eat a `piquante de camarones´ (prawns in a spicy sauce) fresh from the
lake and to take photos as the scenery and climate change gradually from
arid coast through green and semi tropical to a high Andean environment.
Now is your chance to explore some of
the interesting culture in and around Cajamarca. One ticket from the
Casa de la Cultura will allow entrance to the museums,the 17th century
Hospital of Belen (preserved as operative in those times) and the prison
of the Inca King `Atahualpa´- El Cuarto Del Rescate´. It´s well worth
visiting because Cajamarca has an important place in the history of
Peru. Atahualpa was held to ransom here until his people filled his cell
with gold up to shoulder height was the deal. You guessed it (if you
didn't already know) the Conquistadors killed him anyway !
Visible from the town but 23 kilometres
away by winding dirt road `Cumbe Mayo´ is a mysterious place where an
ancient pre -Inca civilization built irrigation channels brilliant in
their technology. Here there is evidence of a sacrificial platform and
nearby the beauty of a weather sculptured stone `forest´- `Los Frailones´.
There is a place up here where by the repositioning of a rock the flow
of water can be changed to either eventually enter the Pacific or the
Atlantic Ocean. After dark back in town you'll have a choice of places
to visit. A Pleasant way to start the evening is to enjoy a drink at La
Casablanca cocktail bar, overlooking the Plaza. Weekend nights are the
most lively with Discotheques and Penas (folk music) but on any night of
the week one can find atmospheric video bars and choose a good
restaurant - either with Chinese, Mexican or of course Peruvian cuisine.
Whether you take the flight back to Lima on Saturday - prior to returning
home, will depend on the arrangements previously requested by you. If
for example you have a week or so more you can spend in Peru you might
want to take a flight to Iquitos from Chiclayo. Otherwise we come to
Lima with you and make sure you get to your departure point in the
International Airport with minimal inconvenience.